With its sister restaurant in Vientiane, Laos, L’Opera Bangkok has been hosting visitors and expats since they first opened in the 1970s, when Soi 39 was but a dusty little alley with cows grazing out front. Now it’s a sophisticated enclave and they’ve got the formula just right, dim lights in a glassed-in pavilion, cool jazz in the air, and good, affordable Italian. Come with friends and fill the table. We had biscotti appetizers followed by a decadent seafood salad. For a main course, go for the fresh fish done as you like or any of the grilled items or fine pastas. I had a delicious squid-ink linguini and clams — not to be missed.